What is Deadstock Fabric? Everything You Need to Know

Last updated on March 7th, 2024 at 05:40 am

We buy a lot of clothes! I mean, all of us. And there’s so much supply for all the demand. The textile industry currently produces 127 million tons per year of fiber, and is expected to produce 142 million tons by 2030. That’s quite insane, if you ask me.

I’m looking for all the ways we can reduce the consumption of raw materials. We’ve covered textile recycling and recycled fashion. But there’s one more, elegant, solution: the use of deadstock fabric. Now, what is deadstock fabric? Is it sustainable? Do any fashion brands use such remnant surplus fabric to make their clothing? Let’s find out!

Read: is cashmere a sustainable fabric? All about eco-friendly fabrics.

Table Of Contents

What is Deadstock Fabric?

Deadstock fabric refers to unused, surplus textile materials that have been left over from previous textile production runs or discontinued stock from fabric manufacturers or fashion brands. These fabrics often languish in warehouses, collecting dust, and are at risk of being discarded as waste. Essentially, deadstock fabrics are fashion industry leftovers that would normally have been thrown away after a certain amount of time. The term itself refers to fabric that, for one reason or another, fashion companies just haven’t been able to sell. It could be that the garments or fabric had small imperfections or damages, or perhaps the company overestimated their needs.

Jobbers play a role in the deadstock market. They buy deadstock in bulk from textile mills and designers to sell to fabric retailers and small fashion brands at a wholesale price.

Types Of Deadstock Fabric

There are two main types of deadstock fabrics:

1 / Fabric Mill Production Surplus

Ever wonder about that extra fabric some factories end up with? That’s what is called ‘fabric mill production surplus.’ Basically, it’s when the factory makes more fabric than needed. But why does this happen?

Sometimes, there’s a little hiccup during production, like a printing or dyeing mistake. If the fabric doesn’t meet the customer’s standards, they might say ‘no thanks,’ leaving the factory with extra fabric. But hey, these ‘defects’ might be super minor, like a slightly off-color or spacing issue, making the fabric still usable for someone else!

Other times, customers change their minds last minute. Suppose they order a bunch of fabric and then decide they don’t want it anymore. That leaves the factory with perfectly good fabric they can’t use.

And anyway, sometimes factories just play it safe by making a bit extra, just in case. Since it’s usually better to have too much than not enough! So, even though it’s technically ‘extra,’ this surplus fabric might still come in handy for someone else down the line.

2 / Deadstock Designer Fabrics

Let’s talk about ‘deadstock designer fabrics.’ These are the fancy fabrics that were supposed to become stunning clothes for luxury brands but ended up sitting idle. They’re basically top-notch materials that never got their chance to shine.

Why does this happen? Well, imagine a luxury brand preps for a season with grand plans, but things don’t go exactly as expected. Maybe they didn’t sell as many outfits as they hoped, leaving leftover fabric when it’s time to switch up the collection.

Then there are those last-minute changes. Picture a fashion designer all set to go with a certain style, only to change their mind right before production starts. So, you’re left with pristine, untouched fabric waiting for its moment to dazzle.

Which, it turns out, is an advantage for those of us looking for sustainable fabric options;)

Are Deadstock Fabrics Sustainable?

Deadstock fabrics are often considered a sustainable option for fashion, as they reduce the need for new fabric production and prevent textile waste. However, deadstock fabrics also have some limitations, such as limited availability, lack of transparency, and potential ethical issues.

So, while there is some debate about whether deadstock fabric is truly sustainable or just another form of greenwashing, using already-produced materials is generally more sustainable than creating new ones. By providing these fabrics to at-home sewists, they can be cherished and cared for while offsetting the need to produce more virgin goods.

Why Use Deadstock Fabric

Deadstock fabrics can bring in several advantages, whether you’re an individual textile user/artist or a business:

1 / It’s eco-friendly

Deadstock fabrics cut down on textile waste, so you’re doing your bit for the planet. Green is the new black, after all!

2 / It’s cost-effective

Deadstock fabrics are a wallet-friendly choice. They’re usually cheaper than getting fabric made-to-order, so you can save some dough while saving the planet!

3 / It’s unique

These fabrics are sometimes one-of-a-kind. They’re often leftovers from custom orders or little mistakes, making them totally unique.

4 / It’s advantageous for small businesses

There is no minimum order quantity with deadstock, so there’s no need to order a truckload of fabric. This makes it perfect for small brands working on a tight budget. Plus, with the increasing interest in sustainable fabric options, your business can stand out by using deadstock fabric. Get those eco-conscious shoppers on board!

Limitations of deadstock fabrics for businesses

It’s not all hunky dory, though. While deadstock fabrics have their perks for many small and up-and-coming brands, there are a few drawbacks to consider when incorporating them into your fashion line.

1 / Limited information on the fabric

When you opt for deadstock fabrics, especially sourced directly from a fabric mill, you might find yourself lacking detailed information about where the fabric came from. One solution is to look for certifications that verify the sustainability of the fabric.

2 / Quantity constraints

Deadstock fabrics are a one-time deal – once they’re gone, they’re gone. This means you’ll be restricted in how much fabric you can access for your designs. If your brand gains popularity or if you’re planning for long-term production, you might find yourself running low on fabric unexpectedly, impacting your ability to fulfill orders.

Where to Source Deadstock Fabric

There are many online fabric stores that sell deadstock fabric in the US, such as:

1 // Blackbird Fabrics

They carry a variety of deadstock fabrics, including designer fabrics, knits, prints, and solids. They also provide information on the sustainability and origin of their fabrics.

2 // Core Fabrics

They specialize in deadstock and designer fabrics, especially knits, fleece, and softshell. They also offer free patterns and tutorials for sewing with their fabrics.

3 // Kokka Fabrics

They source high-quality deadstock fabrics from Japan, including cotton, linen, rayon, and wool. They also have a blog with tips and guides on how to use deadstock fabrics.

Deadstock Clothing

Ah, now we come to the important point for us sustainable clothing buyers. Deadstock clothing involves the utilization of textile waste, whether pre-consumer or post-consumer, or a combination of both, to craft new garments. This practice serves as a financially viable option for smaller and independent labels. Deadstock fabric typically comes at a lower cost and often boasts no minimum order quantity, which is advantageous for brands opting for small-scale production.

However, it’s important to recognize that some brands claiming to utilize deadstock fabric may incorporate only a fraction of it within their product lines. This is particularly true considering the potential design constraints associated with deadstock materials. Therefore, it’s advisable to delve deeper into the deadstock claims made by brands, particularly those belonging to larger corporations.

Brands That Use Deadstock Fabrics

1 // Christy Dawn

Christy Dawn is a sustainable fashion label that creates timeless and vintage-inspired dresses from deadstock fabrics sourced from Los Angeles. The brand also provides information on the origin and sustainability of its fabrics.

2 // Bastet Noir

Bastet Noir is a women’s clothing label that specializes in dresses and outerwear made from deadstock and designer fabrics. The brand ethically employs single mothers in North Macedonia and reinvests its profits to fund their education and growth.

3 // All The Wild Roses

All The Wild Roses is an Australian brand that creates free-spirited and bohemian fashion from upcycled and deadstock fabrics (aka deadstock surplus or remnant fabrics). The brand supports women-led makers in Vietnam and is a Certified B Corp.

4 // Dorsu

Dorsu is a Cambodian brand that produces ethical and quality basics from remnant cotton jersey fabrics. The brand works with a small team of makers in Kampot and ensures fair wages and safe working conditions.

5 // Doodlage

Doodlage is an Indian brand that makes eco-friendly and fashionable clothing from factory waste and recycled materials. The brand also recycles every tiny fabric scrap to create accessories, home products, and notebooks.

6 // Whimsy and Row

Whimsy and Row is a US-based brand that offers everyday styles using a mix of eco-friendly materials and deadstock fabric. The brand aims to be zero-waste and reuses every scrap of fabric to make accessories and home products.

7 // OhSevenDays

OhSevenDays is a Turkish brand that makes Monday to Sunday dressing from deadstock fabrics sourced from local factories in Istanbul. The brand also sells zero-waste misfits, which are garments with minor faults that are sold at a discounted price.

8 // The Consistency Project

The Consistency Project is a US-based brand that reimagines deadstock, vintage, and secondhand clothing with an emphasis on pants. The brand also offers private pant fitting experiences and community programs.

9 // Altar

Altar is a US-based boutique that sells alternative and custom fashion, apothecary, and gifts. The brand’s clothing line, Altar Houseline, is made in America using deadstock materials and celebrates independent artists.

10 // Bug Clothing

Bug Clothing is a UK-based brand that makes thoughtfully designed garments from natural fibers and deadstock cloth. The brand produces on a small scale in the UK and aims to create comfortable and timeless pieces.

11 // Naz

Naz is a Portuguese brand that creates understated everyday clothing using materials that are divided into three categories: ecological, recycled and surplus. With the latter occupying a large chunk of their range, Naz sources its deadstock fabric from textile factories that have overestimated their needs.

12 // Grant Blvd

Grant Blvd is a Black-owned, womxn-owned fashion company that upcycles and “remixes” secondhand clothing items into new garments, all while fighting for environmental and social justice. The brand uses deadstock fabrics for their Atelier Grant Blvd Line of clothing, which features chic satin slip dresses, joggers, sweatshirts, and more.

13 // Reformation

Reformation is a popular sustainable fashion label that creates timeless and vintage-inspired dresses, tops, pants, and more from deadstock fabrics, as well as other eco-friendly materials such as Tencel, organic cotton, and recycled cashmere. The brand also provides information on the origin and sustainability of its fabrics.

14 // Re/Done

Re/Done is a brand that specializes in denim, but not just any denim. The brand takes vintage clothing apart at the seams, and restitches them into new, trendy garments. Re/Done mostly does this with Levi’s denim and Hanes tees, but you’ll also find upcycled dresses, sweatshirts, and more on the brand’s website.

15 // Liz Alig

Liz Alig is a conscious fashion brand that works with local artisans in fair trade workshops around the world. The brand designs its clothing with sustainable textiles, such as handwoven cotton, recycled jersey, and farmer sourced alpaca. The brand also uses deadstock material obtained from other designers and fabric warehouses.

16 // The R Collective

The R Collective is a social impact business that aims to reduce fashion waste by rescuing, reusing, and recycling luxury and premium waste materials and converting them into responsible products. The brand creates beautiful garments from high-end, luxury deadstock fabrics, diverting these fabrics from the landfill. Fabrics that can’t be reused are still put to good use by the R Collective – they recycle fabrics back into their original fibers and re-spin them into better fabrics.

17 // Tonlé

Tonlé is a zero-waste fashion company that sources pre-consumer fabric waste leftover from large garment factories in Cambodia. Tonlé’s designers then design new garments based on these fabrics, and the team ensures the manufacturing process produces zero waste. They turn any small leftover fabric scraps into yarn, which is then woven into more fabric, and any additional textile waste is then recycled into handmade paper.

This post was about deadstock fabric

Deadstock fabrics offer an avenue for reducing virgin material extraction while providing lower price-point items to consumers. While not perfect, they contribute positively to environmental and social sustainability in the fashion industry.

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